Through the Eyes of Kathmandu: As Seen by The New York Times

In The New York Times’ latest feature, veteran travel writer Seth Sherwood unveils the enduring charm of Kathmandu in his article “36 Hours in Kathmandu.” The city, a mesmerizing blend of chaos, culture, and spirituality, has long been a cultural and commercial hub along the ancient India-Tibet trade route. Known as Yei to locals and Yeṃ Deśa to the native Newar people, Kathmandu’s beauty extends beyond its congested streets and pollution, revealing itself in its historic temples, vibrant festivals, and stories woven into its labyrinthine alleys. As The New York Times notes, for those who look beyond the surface, Kathmandu is a city where the past and present coexist in a way few places can match.

Unraveling the City’s Origins

According to local legend, Kathmandu was once an enormous lake, drained by the Buddhist deity Manjushree with a divine sword to create a habitable valley. This mythical tale is only the beginning of the city’s deep historical roots. Over centuries, Kathmandu has been shaped by the Lichchhavi, Malla, and Shah dynasties, each leaving behind architectural wonders and cultural legacies that still define the city today. The NYT article captures the city’s evolving identity, shaped not only by its past rulers but also by its role in Nepal’s political and societal transformations.

Wandering through Kathmandu is like stepping into a living museum. Scattered with ancient temples, stupas, and shrines, the city is a treasure trove of history. Generations of families pass down stories of old Kathmandu, intertwining personal memories with the city’s collective past. Whether through conversations with locals, visits to museums, or simply walking its winding streets, the essence of Kathmandu’s layered history unfolds at every turn.

Uncovering Historic Durbar Squares

As The New York Times highlights, the heart of the Kathmandu Valley is defined by its three UNESCO-listed Durbar Squares—Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur—each a testament to medieval craftsmanship and architectural grandeur.

Kathmandu Durbar Square was once the royal palace of the Malla kings, boasting intricately carved wooden pagodas and the revered Kumari Ghar, home to Nepal’s Living Goddess.

Patan Durbar Square, known for its artistic heritage, is home to the stunning Krishna Mandir and exquisite metalwork and stone carvings.

Bhaktapur Durbar Square transports visitors back in time with its sprawling courtyards, the towering Nyatapola Temple, and the ornate Palace of 55 Windows.

Beyond these famed landmarks, the The New York Times piece draws attention to Kathmandu’s hidden courtyards and lesser-known Bahal (monastic courtyards), where everyday life unfolds amidst traditional homes, ancient shrines, and artisan workshops still preserving time-honored crafts like pottery and woodcarving.

A Culinary and Cultural Tapestry

Kathmandu’s culinary scene, as described by The New York Times, is just as diverse as its cultural influences. From steaming plates of momos (dumplings) to the sweet delicacy Yomari, the city’s food tells the story of its multiethnic heritage. Newari cuisine, found in local Bhattis (traditional eateries), offers specialties like Chatamari (rice crepe) and Kwati (mixed-bean soup), often enjoyed during festivals. Meanwhile, a mix of Tibetan, Indian, and international flavors enriches the city’s growing gastronomic scene.

Festivals breathe life into Kathmandu year-round. Indra Jatra, with its grand chariot processions, is one of the most visually stunning celebrations, while Dashain and Tihar, Nepal’s major Hindu festivals, bring together families for days of joy and tradition. The article also highlights Kathmandu’s spiritual significance, particularly the Buddhist rituals at Swayambhunath (the Monkey Temple) and Boudhanath, where fluttering prayer flags and spinning prayer wheels create an atmosphere of devotion and peace.

A City of Endless Stories

As The New York Times portrays, Kathmandu is more than its iconic landmarks—it’s a city where every street corner whispers a story. From the chime of temple bells at dawn to prayer flags swaying against the backdrop of the Himalayas, the city is a sensory and cultural marvel. Whether seen through the lens of a camera or experienced in person, Kathmandu offers an unforgettable journey into the soul of Nepal—a destination that is both timeless and ever-changing.

Source: The New York Times Names Kathmandu aMust-Visit Destination as Nepal Thrives Post-Recovery (https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2025/02/27/travel/things-to-do-Kathmandu.html)